1860's Straw Bonnets and Hats
The Spoon bonnet was made from a re-purposed paper-straw hat.
It is trimmed with a silk taffeta plaid fabric, gold berries, and some piping.
Back view shows the berries tucked into bias strips of taffeta fabric.
The are plaid taffeta bows on the edge of the crown.
Bias cut taffeta forms the bavolet and the ties, which end in diagonals.
A slightly closer view of the trims. You can see that the face is still perfectly visible when wearing this style.
This is a view from the front.
Closer view of the gold berry trim.
Closer view of the twisted taffeta on the crown, and the black braid at the header of the bavolet.
A close-up view of the front edge of the bonnet shows the decorative piping edge.
Made from a synthetic straw braid this is a spoon bonnet in the style of the early to mid 1860's.
The blue and peach plaid ribbon band also forms the ties.
And the curtain is made from the same plaid ribbon, gathered up.
The crown is deep enough to acommodate a bun hairstyle.
Detailed view of the plaid taffeta ribbon.
Some and-tinted roses and wisteria are tucked in to the inside brim.
Detailed view of the vintage flowers used in this bonnet.
Inside of the bonnet there's a wire hair comb to help keep it in place.ß
The straw for this bonnet came from a modern hat that was dismantled, augmented by some vintage straw that decorates the outer edge of the brim.
As you can see the spoon shape rises up from the crown. The edging gives a scalloped effect.
A bright blue ribbon and a plaid taffeta ribbon are used to trim the outside of the bonnet.
The curtain is made from the plaid ribbon and it has been box-pleated to add the required fullness.
The left side of the crown is trimmed with some orange and blue flowers.
A profile view of the left side.
A 3/4 profile view shows that the face is clearly seen.
The plaid ribbon is also used for the ties. The ends are cut into points.
Here: a close up of the flowers on the outside.
To conform to the contours of the headdress, the ribbon has benn knotted and twisted.
This inside view shows the small bouquet that adorns the centre of the brim, as well as the comb that helps keep it in place.
Close-up view of the curtain and cheek tabs.
This blue straw hat is reminiscent of the Garrison Cap style that became popular after 1863.
The hat is made of very fine strips of blue straw and trimmed with plaid ribbon, a silver and green brooch, and a feather flourish.
The crown is somewhat higher in the back, giving a graceful line. The feathers pick up the colors in the ribbon.
The plaid ribbon co-ordinates with the blue straw, as well as the green in the brooch and the black and red in the feathers.
The hat has horsehair tabs for pinning to the hair, as well as an elastic meant to go under the hairline. These can be coloured with markers to match the wearer's hair color.
Two tails of the plaid ribbon form streamers at the back of the hat.
This detailed view show off the silver brooch with it's thistle and sword motif, plus the green cabochon in the centre which looks like Malachite.
Back view of the hat.
From the inside you can see that the hat has a pork pie crease in the crown, and it is unlined for ventilation.
Made in 2018 this riding hat is made of an open-weave straw.
The front has been trimmed with a cockade made from pleated black velvet ribbon accented with a neutral colored "jewel" set in a gold colored setting.
The hat band is made of plaid silk taffeta in neutral shades and there is a long natural ostrich feather that goes from the front to the back on the right side.
The bias band of silk taffeta ends in long trailing ends at the back of the hat. The trailing ends are trimmed with black velvet fringe.
The left side of the crown is unadorned to allow full view of the silk taffeta. An elastic under the hairline keeps the hat in place.
Here is a detail of the trailing ends with velvet fringe.
Here is a detail of the back of the crown showing the knotted band and trailing ends.
Here is a detail of the pleated cockade at the front of the hat.
Here is a better view of the ostrich feather.
Profile view of the right side of the hat.
Another front view of the hat with feather, hat band, cockade, and trailing ends seen.
Top-down view of the hat with good view of the feather in proportion to the other elements.
This blue straw bonnet was made from re-claimed straw.
The curtain in made of sheer organza hemmed with matching lace.
The inside of the brim is trimmed with grasses, leaves and flowers. Long taffeta ribbons form the ties.
The outside is trimmed with the same leaves, grasses, and flowers. The flowers were hand-tinted to match the ribbons.
A detail of the trim inside the brim. The crown is lined with linen and a comb helps keep the bonnet from sliding off the head.
Detailed view of the trims on the outside of the bonnet. The taffeta ribbon is swirled and twisted over the crown for textural interest.
A view of the inside of the bonnet.
Detailed view of the curtain which is trimmed with a varigated green braid at the header.
Another view of the curtain trimmed with blue lace and green braid.
This 1864 Spoon bonnet was made in 2018 from synthetic straw salvaged from a thrift store sun hat.
The straw was pliable enough to make the shape on the sewing machine. There's a hidden wire in the front edge. The inside of the brim is trimmed with a small nosegay of vintage flowers
In this image you can see the wide ribbon ties used to keep the bonnet on. The ties are brown satin, 4" wide and the ends are "pinked" into large points.
This 3/4 profile view shows the flowers on the inside and outside of the bonnet. Vintage hand-tinted apple blossoms and Lilies of the Valley are the flowers used for this bonnet.
This side view shows the overall effect of the flowers on the outside. Beneath the flowers is a twisted brown taffeta ribbon, 2" wide.
Detail view of the flowers on the right side.
The back view shows the twisted taffeta ribbon across the crown and a bit of the curaten
The left side of this bonnet is adorned simply with the twisted taffeta ribbon. The side view shows the curtain and the ombre picot ribbon that trims it's header.
Left side view from a distance shows the ties as well as the curtain. The curtain is made from a 5" wide vintage taffeta ribbon in brown.
This inside view shows the comb stitched in to the crown which helps keep the bonnet in place on the head.
Detailed view of the flowers inside the crown and the comb which prevents the bonnet from sliding backwards off the head.
Made in 2018 of re-claimed straw, this spoon bonnet is trimmed with plaid taffeta cut on the bias making band and the ties.
The same plaid bias also forms a curtain at the back of the crown's base.
Vintage strawflowers and pale blue chiffon flowers are interspersed with dark green leaves to form the trim atop this bonnet.
A view of the overall shape from the back of this bonnet shows the proportion of the trims.
The curtain of plaid silk taffeta is cut on the bias and pleated to give the required amount of fullness.
View of the right side of the bonnet. Lace trim from the inside peeks out at the edge.
View of the inside of the bonnet shows the trims and the lace inside the brim, as well as the ties.
Detail view of the embroidered lace trimming the inside of the brim.
Detailed view of the strawflowers at the top of the brim, inside the bonnet.
Overall view of the front of the bonnet.
A view of the inside of the bonnet showing the cotton lining and the haircomb the helps to keep the bonnet from sliding backwards of the head.
Made in 2017, this straw spoon bonnet is a modified style without the tabs at the base, making it more comfortable to wear than a strictly historical one.
It has a lace trimmed curtain of sheer fabric and is decorated with embroidered ribbon which also forms the ties. The straw is bound with grosgrain at the bottom for comfort.
The same sheer fabric trimmed with lace is gathered to line the inside of the bonnet, protecting the hair from catching in the straw braid. the embroidered ribbon ties are lined with taffeta ribbon.
Glass raspberries and tiny blue forget-me-nots trim the left side of the bonnet.
A comb inside helps to keep the bonnet from sliding backwards off the head. and a tiny bouquet of raspberries and forget-me-nots decorate the top.
The straw braid was stitched by machine to make this bonnet more affordable.
Detail view of the lace and flowers that trim the inside of the brim.
This lacy straw bonnet was made from a synthetic straw that was originally a bright yellow sunhat! The straw was over-dyed to this olive green color.
Lacy straw bonnets were worn in the summer, in the first half of the 1860's. They allowed the breezes through, but kept the sun out of a lady's eyes.
The brim is edged with gimp that has been tinted to match the straw. The edges are also wired, but the wire is hidden completely.
The curtain is formed by a gathered piece of black antique lace, above which is a satin ribbon that forms a protective binding of the edges of the straw.
Over the crown is a wider satin ribbon topped with three types of grasses. Grasses were very typical decoration on lacy straws of the 1860's.
Back view of the lacy straw bonnet shows the symmetrical arrangement of the decoration.
The ties are black satin ribbon; comfortable and durable.
Straw bonnet made for “Hell On Wheels” 2012, the straw was dyed black before trimming with large berries & velvet.
The black straw bonnet was made for the character of Eva in the second season of Hell On Wheels.
Black velvet ribbon and gimp on brim, crown marked off with satin ribbon.
This round shape is more appropriate for the 1850’s and not completely accurate for 1860’s .
This bonnet started out as a 1960's bucket hat and was remodelled for a funeral scene in "Hell On Wheels" in 2014.
The brim was trimmed down and a Marie Stuart point was made in the centre front. The back was cut away to leave room for the hairstyle.
The crown is decorated with black tulle and lace.
There are purple and yellow pansies and violets trimming the left side. Strings are of black silk taffeta.
Detail of floral trim.
Braided straw Spoon bonnet made for “Hell On Wheels” 2012 trimmed with tiny white blossoms and small glass berries.
The double strings are of gingham taffeta ribbon and wide ribbon printed with berries.
The bonnet has gingham bias in the crown, gingham bows, and a binding of bias on the brim; curtain is of lace.
This small straw bonnet was made for a child on "Hell On Wheels" in 2014.
The outside is decorated with a hat band made from gathered silk duppioni edged with ribbon and some lilacs and green leaves.
The shape was made from a dime-store straw hat.
The ties are of dupioni silk, and finished with piping in deep burgundy.
Detail of the floral decoration.
A few lilacs also decorate the inside of the brim.
This straw bonnet was made for "Hell On Wheels" in 2014.
This bonnet started out as a natural coloured straw hat. The hat was dyed grey and the back was cut away. Some of the brim was removed.
The inside of the brim was trimmed with grey net, grey lace, and hand-tinted greenish grey forget-me-nots, plus greyish green rose leaves.
The outside was trimmed with a cream crochet lace band, grey velvet tubing, and greenish grey flowers
A curtain was made from steel grey taffeta ribbon.
The same taffeta ribbon forms the strings.
Holding this bonnet to the head are two horsehair loops and a wire comb. The crown is lined with cotton to keep the straw from catching the hair.
Detail of flowers inside the brim.
Another grey straw bonnet made in 2014 for "Hell On Wheels", this one was made for the character Mrs. Delaney.
Natural straw was dyed to a cool grey shade and sewn by hand to a buckram frame.
The crown was trimmed with shadow striped grosgrain ribbon and grey-green pussy willows.
Two horsehair tabs and a wire comb hold the bonnet in place. The crown was lined with cotton, as this character needed to remove her bonnet in one scene.
The inside of the brim was trimmed with fine tulle and lace in grey as well as a few pussy willows.
The shape is one that would have been worn just after the American Civil War.
The curtain was made from a heavy grey lace from the costume designer's stock.
Detail of the pussy willow trim.
To help the grosgrain lie smoothly across the crown a loose knot was made on the right side of the bonnet.
Detail of the curtain made from heavy grey lace.
This black straw hat started as a second-hand acquisition. The crown was shortened, and the brim re-shaped before trimming.
This is the “before” picture, just as it came from the second hand store.
Two shades of rust-coloured ribbon, black gimp, and a curly black ostrich feather are the trimmings.
This variation on a round hat was made for “Hell On Wheels” in 2014.
The hat is held on with wires and horsehair tabs that can be pinned through.
Black Straw hat with shallow crown based on a design from Harper’s Bazar August 1869.
This hat is made of “paper straw” with a buckram and wire reinforcement in the crown, and a completely hidden wire around the outer edge.
Green leafy tendrils extend over the crown and trail off the back.
The front is trimmed with three hand tinted grey velvet flowers and a black velvet ribbon bow.
Here's the drawing from Harpers Bazar that inspired the black straw hat.
The perimeter is encircled with a fine cotton lace frill, and there are horse hair tabs for attaching the hat to the hair.
“Leghorn” Straw made for “Hell On Wheels” 2012 trimmed with roses and pink tulle.
Long, curled ostrich feathers extend at the side back.
This style of hat might be worn for gardening work by upper class ladies.
Coarse straw made for “Hell On Wheels” 2012.
Jacquard ribbon, pink tulle, and pheasant feathers trim this garden hat.
This "Mandarin" hat is based on one from the Metropolitan Museum collection.
Here's a photo of the original hat at the Met. It's dated 1865.
The crown is trimmed with a green picot edged ribbon that has been double pleated. A bow is placed at the top with streamers at the back. In profile you can see that this hat is not very large.
This style was popular for “gardening”. Taffeta ribbons tie under the chin and a comb helps to keep this hat in place.
Another straw hat in the "Mandarin" style.
This hat has ties that go under the hair in the back, as well as a wire comb inside to hold it in place.
The crown is encircled with a double pleated frill made from blue petersham ribbon. The edge is also bound with petersham.
Detail of the double pleated frill.
Coarse straw round hat made for Virginia Madsen in “Hell On Wheels” 2012.
Trimmed with ombré taffeta and narrow embroidered ribbon.
Rooster tail feathers and a small brown bird on the left side.
This hat came from Target and was transformed into a round hat for the Character of "Ruth" in "Hell On Wheels" in 2014.
The straw is taupe paper straw, which started as a modern sun hat and was unpicked and then re-stitched into a new shape.
Plastic millinery wire was hidden in the outer edge of the brim to help keep the soft paper straw from collapsing.
Green plaid ribbon forms the decorative trailing strings at the back.
The plaid ribbon was twisted with an olive green taffeta ribbon to encircle the crown.
There are wire "V" shapes under the crown to use for pinning the hat to the hairstyle.
A filigree brooch decorates the back of the hat.
Closer look at the filigree brooch.
This straw round hat was made for the character of "Ruth" in "Hell On Wheels" in 2014. The front is trimmed with pink roses.
The crown is trimmed with an wired ombre ribbon that goes from burgundy to yellow. The wire was pulled up at the top of the crown to snug the ribbon in to the hat.
The back of the hat has short trailing ribbons and a bow of narrow pink satin.
Top-down view of the straw round hat.
Originally this hat came from a thrift store and the brim and crown were both made smaller to suit the styles of this period.
Detail of the flower decoration on "Ruth's" straw hat - tiny roses.
This straw hat was modelled on one from Harpers Magazine 1867.
Here's the drawing from the magazine that inspired this straw hat
The crown and brim are of straw braid, and the trims are blue ribbons and flowers.
The pointed trim is made of a piqué ribbon.
The trailing ribbons at the back are of moiré embossed with three-leaved clovers and edged with the piqué ribbon.
A small bouquet of off-white and navy blue flowers trims the front.
A larger bouquet and some tulle trim the back.
This detail shows the wires and horsehair, as well as the elastic cord for attaching the hat, the crown is also lined with cotton to preserve both hat and hair.
This is the straw body that was used to make the previous hat (For “Hell On Wheels” in 2014).
This straw bonnet is in the "Empire" shape that was popular just after the American Civil War.
The shape was made from straw stitched by machine over water-soluble stabilizer, making it much more affordable than doing it all by hand.
The trim consists of hand-tinted flowers and gathered ribbon. The band is a floral ribbon from Michael Levine's in Los Angeles.
This bonnet has no curtain. The Empire style was worn without curtains just as often as with them.
A view of the band which also forms the ties. The floral ribbon was lined with a plain taffeta ribbon in an apricot colour.
Detail of the floral ribbon used for ties and band.
Another Empire shape, mostly made on the sewing machine. Brown straw is re-enforced with wire.
The front of the bonnet is finished with a braid of straw made from the strips used for the body. The band is made of floral ribbon and pleated silk.
This one has a curtain of the same pleated silk as used on the band.
Detail of the floral ribbon and pleated silk trim.
Detail of the floral ribbon ties. This ribbon came from Michael Levine's in Los Angeles.
The inside of the brim is trimmed with flowers, leaves, and a lace-trimmed piece of chiffon.
Detail of the inside of the brim.
In the early 1860's bonnets were considered more formal than hats, bonnets being worn by grown ups and hats being favoured more by very young ladies and children. Over the decade hats gained popularity, especially after the American Civil War, and bonnets became a style favoured by older women. Bonnets and hats made of straw are featured in this gallery. Most are made of straw braid and a few are made of woven straw bodies blocked over wooden blocks. These styles are mostly from the 1860's although there are a few 1850's styles snuck in here and there. Since straw is a natural material, it can be dyed to nearly any colour, so you can have a bonnet to go with any outfit. All of the trims are applied by hand so they can be swapped out easily. You can have one made in a similar or different style. Contact Easel Incorporated for more information.
Click on any photo to get a close-up view.