1860's Cloth Bonnets
This gallery features bonnets of buckram and wire covered with cloth, as well as felt bonnets in the styles of the 1860's. Bonnets of this decade started out with a rather round shape which became taller and narrower around the time of the American Civil War. Those were called Spoon Bonnets. Towards the second half of the decade a style called the Empire Bonnet gained some popularity. It was a smaller, blunter shape that may or may not have had a curtain at the back. Another popular shape of later 1860's that lingered into the 1870's was the Fanchon, which was a half-bonnet of only the front brim and little bit of the crown. These ones have been sold already, but you can have an 1860's bonnet made in a similar or different style. Simply contact Easel Incorporated to find out how.
Click on any photo to get a close-up view.
Covered in a deep wine-colored silk, this spoon bonnet is trimmed with taffeta, lace, fruits, and flowers.
The back view shows the bavolet, or curtain, trimmed with black Vandyke lace.
This view shows the fruits and flowers used on the top of the bonnet.
3/4 view showing ties, bavolet and trims.
Profile view shows that the face is not covered while wearing this style.
Front view showing ties are edged with lace at the bottoms.
View of the interior showing lining and lace at bottom of brim.
Close up of floral trim.
The flowers have been placed on top of a drape of taffeta trimmed with lace.
Floral trim view from the left hand side.
The buckram frame has been covered with a shot black and purple taffeta
The outside of the bonnet is trim med with a cluster of velvet grapes that includes a grape tendril and some leaves for contrast.
The curtain of the bonnet is made from the same shot taffeta, but has been lined with black cotton bobbinette, as many were in the 1860's.
This bonnet is a modified style from the early 1860's. The ties are attached a t the sides of the brim which curves away from the face.
The tip of the crown is oval, and flat.
Back view of the bonnet
The left side of this bonnet shows the lilac chiffon and black lace the intertwine over the crown.
The inner brim is trimmed with gathered black lace, and some of the same grapes found on the outside.
This photo taken with a flash shows the color of the trims
This flash photo gives a good impression of the true color of the taffeta fabric.
Front view of the bonnet shows how far above the forehead the spoon brim rises.
In side view of the bonnet clearly shows lace in the brim and lining in the crown.
Detailed view of velvet grapes cluster inside brim of bonnet.
This frothy pink bonnet is exuberantly trimmed with three types of cream lace, and hand tinted flowers on the left.
The right side of the bonnet is without flowers, showing the lace off! The ties are made from wide cream satin ribbon.
The tip of this bonnet is oval, and it has been covered with a satin of silk/cotton blend. The curtain is a double frill of lace.
Front view of the frothy pink bonnet shows off the wired brim, which has been covered with a puffing of organdy. This brim is translucent.
In side view of the pink bonnet shows off the calico lining, not historically accurate, but very pretty.
Detailed view of the inner brim shows a small grouping of flowers, and the wire comb which helps keep the bonnet in place on the head.
Detailed view of the inner brim as it appears on a head.
This 1860's spoon bonnet is covered in grey silk velvet, and trimmed with ribbons, flowers, and lace.
The striped "ribbons" are actually made from striped fabric that was cut with scalloped edges using a rotary cutter.
A large ribbon bow trims the crown and it's ends cascade down the sides of the bonnet.
Detail view of the bow and lace.
The inside of the brim is trimmed with a small grouping of hand-tinted organza flowers in grey/blue.
The lining is a warm yellow cotton fabric; very comfortable and cool to wear. There's a comb and some satin ribbon ties to keep the bonnet in place.
Spoon Bonnet of brown velvet made for “September Dawn” 2007.
Right side is trimmed with ostrich and pheasant feathers plus a handmade tassel.
Left side is trimmed with gimp and ribbon.
This Empire bonnet was made for Demi Moore in “Forsaken” 2014.
The bonnet is made of buckram and wire and covered with a houndstooth tweed that the costume designer (Chris Hargadon) chose.
Trimmed with navy cotton gimp.
Lined with cotton and trimmed inside with a box pleated grosgrain ribbon.
This Empire style was popular at the tail end of the American Civil War and just afterwards.
Here's a photo of Ms. Moore wearing the bonnet on set. She is with her co-star Kiefer Sutherland.
This style from 1868 is taken from a drawing shown in Harpers Magazine, re-created in 2014 for Hell On Wheels.
The bonnet is made from a moulded and wired buckram base covered with shot velvet of green and pink. A piece of cotton fringe and a bias ruffle of velvet decorate the brim.
Here is the drawing that inspired this bonnet.
Green satin ribbons tie under the hairstyle, small ribbon roses and leaves decorate one side.
A double fall of cream embroidered lace forms the curtain which is not intended to cover the hair.
The upper lace fall also forms the strings which tie under the chin. A comb inside and horsehair tabs keep this bonnet firmly on the head.
Empire bonnet made for “Hell On Wheels” 2013.
Buckram frame is covered with slate grey taffeta and trimmed with black gimp and rust duppioni silk pleated frill.
The full curtain is also trimmed with a delicate black gimp.
The bonnet is lined with cotton.
Spoon Bonnet made for “Hell On Wheels” in 2013.
The buckram frame is covered with mauve shot taffeta and trimmed with taffeta ribbon and pansies on the right side.
Left side and strings are of pale grey satin ribbon, which appears to go from the outside to the inside of the bonnet.
Designed by Carol Case, this tweedy wool covered bonnet was made for the character of Naomi in “Hell On Wheels" in 2014.
The frame is made of wire and buckram, and the strings are of navy blue petersham ribbon.
The back has the same shape as a covered wagon and there’s a short curtain, cut on the bias.
The brim has a fairly sharp incline and there’s only one small bit of gimp trim. This is not historically accurate, but meets the needs of the character.
In profile the actress’ face can still be seen.
The bonnet is lined with cotton and also has a comb to keep it from sliding backwards.
Marie Stuart style bonnet made for “September Dawn” 2007, the shape is more from the 1850’s and not historically accurate.
The bonnet is made from buckram and wire, and covered with moiré fabric.
The brim and tip are both piped with satin.
This is another version of the soft cone-shaped bonnet style.
In this example the outer fabric is an over-dyed plaid.
The back of this bonnet is trimmed with a large bow with long tails which form a "bavolet", or curtain. The trim is made of taupe lining fabric!
Soft Spoon Bonnet made for “Hell On Wheels” 2012.
The main fabric is a mauve tweed with green flecks.
Trimming is of shot taffeta in green and mauve.
This tiny bonnet is based on one found in Harper's Bazar in November of 1867.
The buckram frame is covered with blue cotton velveteen, and lined with pale gray silk duppioni. The ties are of dark peach taffeta ribbon.
This is a modified "spoon bonnet" shape, which would have been worn fairly far back on the head.
The top-inside of the brim is trimmed with peach coloured forget-me-nots and a pale blue ribbon flourish.
The outside is trimmed with peach coloured gimp, peach and yellow flowers, and three pale blue ribbon loops.
The bottom of the crown is cut away to make room for the hairstyle.
Tiny bonnet covered with cinnamon brown shot taffeta.
This is a modified "spoon bonnet" shape that is still a bit high in the front.
This style leaves the face exposed.
This tiny style was worn from 1867 to 1869.
Trim is black chenille and rayon gimp, strings are of black silk velvet.
Wine velvet spoon bonnet trimmed with black lace, strings of wide black satin ribbon. This style was worn in 1864-65.
This photo shows the colour of the velvet better! The bonnet has a buckram frame and cotton lining.
2 metal-toothed combs help to keep this bonnet from sliding backwards off the head.
This felt bonnet started it's life as one from the Amazon Drygoods Factory.
The inside has been trimmed with gathered voile and lace in blue.
The outside was trimmed with bright blue forget-me-nots and pale blue roses, along with blue ribbon loops
The back of the crown is quite round. This is not quite true to period.
The crown is decorated with a wide petersham ribbon that has been shaped in a curve. The ties are original to this bonnet.
Detail of the flowers and ribbon trim.
Detail of the inner brim decoration.
This is another renovated Amazon Drygoods bonnet.
The original bonnet has been cut down around the brim and re-wired. The edge is covered with pale yellow petersham.
The strings are made of a very crisp vintage pale yellow taffeta ribbon.
Again, this crown is quite round.
The taffeta ribbon and more grey petersham form the decoration on this bonnet.
Detail of ribbon loops decoration.
This wine felt bonnet is trimmed with black ribbon and flowers. Felt is not historically accurate.
Two layers of box-pleated sheer ribbon line the inside front and the ties are wide silk velvet ribbons.
This bonnet was originally a 1950's hat.
Detail view of the black velvet floral decorations on the sides, which are symmetrical from right to left.
The curtain is formed from a very wide balk satin ribbon bow with long tails.
Wider view of the curtain at the back.
This brown felt bonnet arrived as a bonus when I bought a hat block. It was undecorated when it came.
The left side was trimmed with flowers, puffs, and ribbons in warm tones with green.
Detail of floral and ribbon trim.
The back has a tiny curtain of pleated brown satin, which matches the small ties in the front.