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This headdress was made from an image in an historic fashion book. It's built on a very small buckram and wire frame that was covered with Taffeta.
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Here's the image that inspired the headdress. It's from Harper's magazine and dated 1869.
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The frame was decorated with spotted net in rusty brown, matching rusty brown lace, plus pink beaded lace, and a very tiny gimp braid in gold, black and pink.
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The "bonnet strings" are made of two different laces combined with a decorative spotted net bow that sits on the chest. The strings are not meant to be tied.
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Side-view of the headdress showing the different materials.
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The headdress has brown ribbon ties that are meant to tie below a bun worn low at the nape of the neck.
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Detailed view of the gimp, and brown and pink beaded laces.
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Detailed view of the spotted net bow.
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The inside of the headdress has been fitted with a wire hair comb to keep it properly in place.
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You can see the taffeta-covered understructure in this photo.
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This 1860's day cap is made on a base of vintage cotton bobbinet salvaged from an old wedding gown.
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The back of the cap features two layers of embroidered lace.
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The side-back view shows the figures on the upper layer of lace.
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The front features a lace frill.
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Side-front view showing the lace trimmed join of the front ruffle.
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Detailed view of the various laces used in this cap.
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A drawstring ties under the caps at the back to enclose the hair, while also allowing the cap to be opened flat for laundering and pressing.
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Also included are small loops of metal for securing bobby-pins to keep the cap in place.
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A hidden wire comb is stitched in to the centre front to keep it firmly in place.
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Another detailed view of the lace.
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Made from a nylon Point D'Esprit net, this day cap was created in 2015.
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The cap is edged with cotton crochet lace that has been strung with a green satin ribbon.
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Back view of the Point D'Esprit cap. A drawstring makes the size adjustable.
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The centre front top is finished with a bow of green satin ribbon.
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This silk organza cap was made for the character of Anne in the TV series “Hell On Wheels’ 2014.
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The cap is small and sits on the back of the head.
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Pale blue silk ribbon trims the back.
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A small crocheted lace ornament covers the stitching at the centre of the crown.
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Inside you can see the horsehair tabs and comb for attaching the cap to the hair.
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Black lace hair net in an1864 style made for “Hell On Wheels” TV series in 2014.
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The lace is very soft and gathered under the hairstyle with a drawstring. A comb holds the front in place.
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A band of antique ruffled paillettes decorates the front of the hairline.
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Fanchon trimmed with lace motifs and sheer organza insertion, elastic at the back snugs up to the hairline at the neck.
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A small wire comb at the crown plus two metal loops at the sides help to hold the cap to the hair.
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White day cap with lace trimmed lappets has delicate lace trim around the front. This style was worn from about 1862-64.
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Cream linen cap made for “Hell On Wheels” 2013.
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Trimmed with hand made lace.
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Hand-hemmed circular ruffle, picot edged ribbon.
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This ivory day cap is from 1860-1863 and is trimmed with narrow cotton lace.
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The shape is meant to echo the sweep of the skirt to the back of the figure.
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Square cotton lace motifs and small ivory satin ribbon bows trim the top layer.
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This tiny cap was made from an antique crochet doily. Elastic was threaded along the edges.
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Detail of the lace doily that was used to make this cap.
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Ivory lace Day Cap made for "Hell On Wheels" in 2014.
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Ivory and beige gimp trims the front of this day cap.
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This style was worn in the first half of the decade and creates a rather elegant line.
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A very soft lace was used for this cap.
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A drawstring brings the bottom of the cap close under the hair style.
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This net for the hair was based on one published in Peterson's Magazine in 1857.
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A fine elastic thread was run around the edge, and bobby pins easily keep this cap in place.
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The Mob-Cap style day cap is made of beige georgette and trimmed with beige cotton crochet lace.
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This style of cap would have been worn indoors, at home, during daylight hours. It was popular from the late 1850's to the early 1860's.
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The cap covers only the back of the head.
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Fine elastic in a casing, plus a hidden wire comb are used to keep it in place.
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This delicate lawn fanchon day cap was fashioned after one pictured in Godey's Lady's Book in 1864.
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This is the drawing from Godey's Ladies Book of 1864 that inspired this cap.
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The cap fastens under the hairstyle in the back and has a hidden wire comb in the front.
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The lappets are finished with a machine made satin stitch with a scalloped edge. The fine lace has been applied by hand.
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Detail of the lace.
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This day cap is reminiscent of one published in Peterson's Magazine in 1861. It was recommended for "tall, willowy " ladies!
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Completely stitched by hand, a wire comb is hidden in the front and ties hold it down in the back.
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The body of the cap is made with a self-stripe cotton lawn. The frill is graduated in size, becoming longer towards the back.
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Detail of the back of the cap showing the ties under the hairstyle.
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This very tiny Mob-Cap is based on one published in Godey's Lady's Book in 1858, where it was referred to as a Morning Cap.
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The edge is trimmed with a circular ruffle.
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A lace jabot has been re-purposed to decorate the back.
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The crown is trimmed with narrow lace. Detail of lace jabot used as streamers.
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This ivory georgette cap is based on one published in Godey's Ladies Book and Magazine in 1863.
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The frill is shorter in front and longer at the back of the head.
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Lace streamers trail from the back. An elastic in a casing and a wire comb are used to keep it in place.
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The outer edges are also finished with a narrow lace.
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Detail of lace trim and streamers.
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This lace cap is a style described as a "Home Cap" in Peterson's Magazine in 1857.
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The lace has been stitched to a foundation of linen. A wire comb is hidden at the front.
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The circular frill of the lace softens the hairline.
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This so-called Dinner Cap was made from a commercially available lace piece and simply trimmed with ribbon and velvet.
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The velvet ribbon around the perimeter adds enough body to the lace to keep it in a slightly domed shape.
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A wire comb was hidden under the ivory silk ribbon at the front of this cap.
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Made from an illustration in Godey's Lady's Book in 1864, this white cotton cap is made from a pin-tucked fabric.
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A wire comb in the front and a drawstring at the back hold this cap in place.
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Detail of lace and pin-tucked trim, as well as fagoting trim.
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The band across the top extends into lappets at the sides.
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A lace trimmed frill rises at the front to frame the face.
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This is the diagram from Godey's Ladies Book of 1864 that was the inspiration for the previous cap.